Before long, the traffic becomes a metaphor for the whole business environment and you start to question every rule, law, regulation and practice and wonder how anything ever gets done. But you soon realise that somehow, as if by magic, it does!
The art of turning left is a perfect case study. Driving on the right hand side (as we do most of the time, although the line in the middle of the road is more of a guide than a ruling) and needing to turn left, you are faced with a solid and apparently endless wall of incoming traffic which shows no sign of stopping or giving way. In a western city, you could imagine yourself sitting for hours waiting for a natural break in the traffic. So what do you do?
The answer is: you just do it. With your eyes half closed you start inching your way to the left and, as though Moses himself was standing there raising his staff at God’s command, the incoming traffic just stops and lets you go through. No hooting, shouting, cursing or road rage. They can see that you want to turn left and, provided you act with confidence and don’t hesitate, they politely let you go through, usually with a wave and a smile. It’s a miracle!
In a way, this simple example illustrates how hard it can be for a westerner to do business in this part of the world. Out goes the old rule book (i.e. the signed NDAs, the lawyers in suits, the 20 page contracts and the tried and tested rules of engagement) and in comes a new way of operating by feeling your way, making friends and building confidence by learning and trying.
I’m sure it goes without saying that none of this can be done from a distance!
